Category Sociology

The Master Chart of Fashion Influence

From WSJ, by Ray A. Smith and Maryanne Murray

The fashion world may often inhabit its own bubble, but fashion doesn’t exist in its own vacuum. Designers are influenced by other designers, past and present, whether they realize it or not—and whether they admit it or not.

There are varying degrees of osmosis, homage paying, and “borrowing” during fashion week as well as camps and schools of thought. Ideas run from designer to designer, especially from one generation to the next.

Some younger designers, like Prabal Gurung, have formal mentors. His is Carolina Herrera. Each attended the other’s show this week and it’s clear there is some link between Mr. Gurung’s polished elegance and that of his mentor as well as lions like Oscar de la Renta. Derek Lam worked at Michael Kors and surely some of Mr. Kors’ aesthetic seeped into Mr. Lam’s own.

The World’s Largest Social Network

From Wired

Disciplines of the Body

From Lacanian Ink, by Alain Badiou; translated by Susan Spitzer

[…]
—Absolutely! Glaucon excitedly exclaimed. Pamper your body, stay “in shape”: that’s the creed of the upper classes. You always see them huffing and puffing at their tennis game, doing push-ups on their desks, practicing their golf swing out on their patios, and getting their faces remodeled, like Frankenstein’s creature, by the big-name plastic surgeons.

—They’d be better off studying philosophy, reading real books, learning poems by heart or reviewing the math they’ve forgotten since the days when they sweated over differential equations in order to pass the exam for getting into the Elite. And they’d be even better off modestly and carefully inquiring into the life of the vast majority of their fellow citizens. This fetishism of the body, this obsession with health everywhere stands in the way of the incorporation into truths, even the most ordinary ones. Someone starts talking to you about philosophy and you reply “headache,” or they talk about painting and you rattle off all your little bumps and bruises, and God forbid they should try to discuss serial music, well, then you start in on the whole saga of your bouts of diarrhea and lumbago.

—I’ve seen guys like that! Amantha agreed. I can’t stand them!
[…]

Art: Barbara Probst.
Exposure #27, N.Y.C. 249 W. 34th Street, 05.25.04, 9:27p.m., 2004
Ultrachrome ink on cotton paper
2 parts 112 x 168 cm/44 x 66 inches each
Edition of 5

The X Factor

From the NY Times

Songbird’s Hormones Surge at Sight of Flowers

Via Wired, by Susan Milius

As summer heats up, the sight of blooming thistles may give male goldfinches a testosterone kick.

Thistle flowers could signal to American goldfinches that the seeds the songbirds prize for baby food and parent food will soon be abundant, proposes Thomas Luloff of the University of Western Ontario in London, Canada. And in lab setups, male goldfinches housed among blooming Canadian thistles underwent physiological changes that indicate the birds got the “breed now” message from the combination of summery heat and thrilling thistles, Luloff reported January 6 at the annual meeting of the Society for Integrative and Comparative Biology.

What particularly impressed George Bentley of the University of California, Berkeley was that the birds “don’t eat the flower — they eat the seeds,” he says. Yet the precursor to food still appeared to have an effect.

Biologists still have much to learn about what tips off birds that it’s time to breed, says Bentley, who was not part of the research project. Yet, he says, the need to understand those cues is growing as climate change threatens to knock signals out of sync.

Many birds lose what they don’t use during the winter, letting hormone concentrations dwindle and reproductive organs shrink. When the breeding season returns, both males and females typically have to recharge and regrow. Much of the earlier work on breeding signals has focused on the broad role of day length or temperature, yet birds can react to other cues too. Species differ in what cues or mixes of cues rev up their breeding biology again.

To see if just looking at thistle flowers would have an effect on goldfinch breeding, Luloff and his colleagues put wild goldfinches, caught during the nonbreeding season, into either of two temperature-controlled rooms. A series of shower curtains allowed birds in both rooms to see either pots of blooming thistles or nonblooming thistles, or no plants at all.

Birds kept in the chill of Canadian spring at 13.5 degrees Celsius during lab daytime didn’t experience a testosterone surge in response to thistles. But in the room warmed to a balmy 28 degrees C, birds that could see pots of blooming thistles beside their cage developed twice the testosterone surge found in neighbors screened from blooms with a shower curtain and allowed to see only thistle plants without blooms.

In the warm room, the bloom-viewing males outpaced their bloomless neighbors in testes growth during the early stages of testes expansion. Later, though, the bloomless males caught up.

Bentley raises the question of whether the smell of the thistle blooms inspired the males. Luloff argues that he thinks it’s unlikely. Goldfinches don’t have much brain area known to be devoted to smelling, and anyway, the shower curtains may have blocked views but let odors circulate.

The idea of a visual food cue isn’t completely new, says reproductive biologist Heather E. Watts of Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles. A 2000 study of antbirds found that the sight of mouthwateringly desirable live crickets affected the male songbirds’ physiology and increased their singing.

Image: Flickr/RunnerJenny

Graffiti of New York’s Past Revived

Via NY Times, by Randy Kennedy

Anyone who has been lost in the last few weeks around the southern reaches of the Gowanus Canal in Brooklyn could be excused for experiencing a powerful Koch administration flashback. On the wall of a brick warehouse there, visible from the parking lot of a furniture store, a huge mural unfurls itself, a loving, seemingly spray-by-spray re-creation of one of the more infamous pieces of graffiti ever to ride the subway: a 1980 work by the artist known as Seen that covered the length of a No. 6 train car with the ominous phrase “Hand of Doom.”

The original work — among those canonized in Henry Chalfant and Martha Cooper’s 1984 landmark photographic history, “Subway Art” — was a token of its troubled urban times, a reference to the Black Sabbath song of the same title with the words flanked by a hooded executioner and a time bomb. The 21st-century version, on closer inspection, turns out to be a bit gentler and a lot more oblique. It reads “Joan of Arc,” and the hatchet man has been replaced by an armored representation of the martyred French saint.

A few miles away, on a streetfront wall in the Sunset Park section of Brooklyn, a similarly odd example of historical revival has sprung up: a kinetic-looking 1980 piece by the graffiti writer Blade has been recreated, with the five letters of his name changed to read Plato. On a coffee shop wall in Bushwick, a name piece from the same year by the artist known as Dondi has been faithfully resurrected but changed to read Gandhi. And a copy of an early-’80s subway tag by the artist Sin appeared just last week on a row of lockers inside Louis D. Brandeis High School on the Upper West Side, with the addition of a few letters and some philosophical heft; the name is now Spinoza.

The pieces might sound like the result of some kind of graffiti-world version of Old-Timers’ Day at Yankee Stadium. But they are actually the works of a newly formed collective of (mostly) former graffiti writers in their 20s and 30s, who have embarked on an unusual citywide campaign to summon 50 or more of the most famous pieces of old-school graffiti out of the history books and back onto the streets. The project, called “Subway Art History,” is unusual not only because the artists are making the pieces with the permission of businesses, schools and other perhaps nostalgic owners of blank vertical space, but also because of the nature of the pieces themselves. They are expressions of homage in a subculture that has almost always been defined by fierce competition, intense striving for originality and a kill-the-elders attitude toward the past.

“In graffiti it’s like a teenage thing: ‘No way am I going to become my father, no way am I going to make anything that looks like anyone else’s’ — and then, of course, you become your father,” said a 32-year-old former graffiti writer who helped form the collective. He and other group members (there are 2 founders and a floating membership of about 10) asked that their names be withheld, not for the usual reason — the police — but because the collective, which calls itself Slavery, is seeking to get away from the ego jockeying that normally accompanies graffiti work.

The project was partly inspired, he said, by one completed last year along a blighted commercial stretch of West Philadelphia by the artist Steve Powers. As part of that city’s Mural Arts Program, Mr. Powers created a series of eye-popping murals visible from the elevated train line, with the cooperation of local property owners.

In New York the idea is to use the pieces to try to teach a two-part history lesson. The first is about the glories (as the collective sees it) of the early days of graffiti and the invention of a vernacular art form that has swept the world. The second lesson is about world history itself, in neighborhoods where education remains low on the list of priorities for many struggling teenagers.

The 32-year-old artist painted graffiti illegally for many years but is now a teacher, working with often troubled adolescents. Interviewed at a cafe near the Gowanus Canal, he said that the group started with Joan of Arc because the members saw her, dead at 19, as an emblem of both the power and the perils of youth. Besides warriors, philosophers and characters from Western and Eastern mythology (Sisyphus is on the list of coming works), he said that they also plan to include artists, writers and political and religious figures.

“Jesus is a great one,” he said. “I’d love to throw a Jesus in there somewhere, but also an Isis.”

He added: “To me, this is like a real-life Wikipedia project. We hope that the people who see the words help each other figure out what they’re about, and that these things start a conversation that keeps going on the streets.”

A print made of the Joan of Arc piece will be sold beginning next week as part of Edition One Hundred, a new online art gallery that sells limited-edition prints and gives 10 percent of the profits to charity. (The National Breast Cancer Foundation is its beneficiary because a friend of one of the collective’s founders battled the disease.) The eventual plan is to compile photographs of all the pieces, which could take more than a year to complete, into a book.

Mr. Chalfant, the graffiti photographer and historian, said that he had given his blessings to the project partly because such a tribute had few precedents in the world of New York graffiti. “I think it’s a wonderful reverse of what usually happens, which is that these people whose shoulders everyone has stood on don’t get any credit,” he said.

The artist-teacher allowed that, as feel-good as the project is, he decided not to seek permission systematically to recreate the older pieces from their creators or from the families of artists who are no longer living.

“It’s still such a boys’ club,” he said of the graffiti world. “I almost felt that I’d be humbling myself too much to go ask them, ‘Um, do you mind?’ ” he said.

But at least one of the veteran artists, Blade (whose real name is Steven Ogburn and who painted trains for more than a decade, starting in the early 1970s), said he didn’t mind at all.

“It’s nice the attention guys my age are finally starting to get for our work,” he said. “It kind of amazes me actually. People in their teens and 20s come up to me, and they know every detail of my life story. I’m like, ‘Wow, I don’t even remember dating that girl back in ’72, but this kid here knows all about it.’ ”

Odd Couples

Basic Religion Test Stumps Many Americans

Via NY Times, by Laurie Goodstein

Americans are by all measures a deeply religious people, but they are also deeply ignorant about religion.

Researchers from the independent Pew Forum on Religion and Public Life phoned more than 3,400 Americans and asked them 32 questions about the Bible, Christianity and other world religions, famous religious figures and the constitutional principles governing religion in public life.

On average, people who took the survey answered half the questions incorrectly, and many flubbed even questions about their own faith.

Those who scored the highest were atheists and agnostics, as well as two religious minorities: Jews and Mormons. The results were the same even after the researchers controlled for factors like age and racial differences.

“Even after all these other factors, including education, are taken into account, atheists and agnostics, Jews and Mormons still outperform all the other religious groups in our survey,” said Greg Smith, a senior researcher at Pew.

That finding might surprise some, but not Dave Silverman, president of American Atheists, an advocacy group for nonbelievers that was founded by Madalyn Murray O’Hair.

“I have heard many times that atheists know more about religion than religious people,” Mr. Silverman said. “Atheism is an effect of that knowledge, not a lack of knowledge. I gave a Bible to my daughter. That’s how you make atheists.”

Among the topics covered in the survey were: Where was Jesus born? What is Ramadan? Whose writings inspired the Protestant Reformation? Which Biblical figure led the exodus from Egypt? What religion is the Dalai Lama? Joseph Smith? Mother Teresa? In most cases, the format was multiple choice.

The researchers said that the questionnaire was designed to represent a breadth of knowledge about religion, but was not intended to be regarded as a list of the most essential facts about the subject. Most of the questions were easy, but a few were difficult enough to discern which respondents were highly knowledgeable.

On questions about the Bible and Christianity, the groups that answered the most right were Mormons and white evangelical Protestants.

On questions about world religions, like Islam, Buddhism, Hinduism and Judaism, the groups that did the best were atheists, agnostics and Jews.

One finding that may grab the attention of policy makers is that most Americans wrongly believe that anything having to do with religion is prohibited in public schools.

An overwhelming 89 percent of respondents, asked whether public school teachers are permitted to lead a class in prayer, correctly answered no.

But fewer than one of four knew that a public school teacher is permitted “to read from the Bible as an example of literature.” And only about one third knew that a public school teacher is permitted to offer a class comparing the world’s religions.

The survey’s authors concluded that there was “widespread confusion” about “the line between teaching and preaching.”

Mr. Smith said the survey appeared to be the first comprehensive effort at assessing the basic religious knowledge of Americans, so it is impossible to tell whether they are more or less informed than in the past.

The phone interviews were conducted in English and Spanish in May and June. There were not enough Muslim, Buddhist or Hindu respondents to say how those groups ranked.

Clergy members who are concerned that their congregants know little about the essentials of their own faith will no doubt be appalled by some of these findings:

• Fifty-three percent of Protestants could not identify Martin Luther as the man who started the Protestant Reformation.

• Forty-five percent of Catholics did not know that their church teaches that the consecrated bread and wine in holy communion are not merely symbols, but actually become the body and blood of Christ.

• Forty-three percent of Jews did not know that Maimonides, one of the foremost rabbinical authorities and philosophers, was Jewish.

The question about Maimonides was the one that the fewest people answered correctly. But 51 percent knew that Joseph Smith was Mormon, and 82 percent knew that Mother Teresa was Roman Catholic.

To Live & Ride In L.A. OFFICIAL TRAILER

By TRAFIK

Trafik brands themselves as Global Fixed Gear Culture, which makes this more of a how-to-lifestyle-music video than anything original or clever; nonetheless, some redeeming visual quality is salvaged through variations on urban infrastructure.

The Rich Have More Money, But the Poor are Rich in Heart

Via PhysOrg

The world could one day be an economically equal place, if the lower-income population have anything to do with it. In an interesting yet disheartening series of socioeconomic experiments, led by a team of UC Berkeley researchers, the findings are that those on the lower-income levels are more likely to give and be charitable than their higher paid counterparts.

In one experiment in particular, led by doctoral student, Paul Piff and his researchers, participants completed a questionnaire reporting their socioeconomic status and a few days later were provided with $10 to share anonymously. The findings concluded the more generous of the income brackets were on the lower-income scale. A recent national survey reiterates the results, revealing lower-income people give more of their hard-earned money to charity than the wealthy.

At a time when the richest one percent of Americans own more than the bottom 90 percent combined, Piff and his colleagues’ findings are more than a little timely. “Our data suggests that an ironic and self-perpetuating dynamic may in part explain this trend,” the study researchers write, to be published in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology. “Whereas lower-class individuals may give more of their resources away, upper-class individuals may tend to preserve and hold onto their wealth. This differential pattern of giving versus saving among upper–and lower– class people could serve to exacerbate economic inequality in society.”

Piff and his researchers, including Greater Good Science Center Faculty , Dacher Keltner, conducted a second experiment based on the definitive psychological evidence that the less people have, the more they give. The participants did an exercise stating how they felt people should divvy their annual income. They were able to choose from charitable contributions, recreation, food, and other miscellaneous things. The point of the activity was to make them feel higher or lower on the status bar. It showed, again, those on the lower end, thought a higher percentage should be charitable.

The researchers also found evidence that the likelihood of executing other compassionate, generous tasks and behaviors might be explained by their higher concern for equality and empathy for others. Though on the other end, when researchers provoked compassion in the higher-class participants, they were just as much — if not more — socially conscious as the lower-class participants. The researchers felt being “rich or “poor” wouldn’t necessarily indicate social behaviors, but it is the starting level of compassion they might feel for others.

Prior research, found by Piff and his colleagues, suggests lower income people might be more compassionate because they’re more closely rooted to and dependent on others, therefore more empathetic. It’s also thought the more money the lower-earning people make in their lifetime and the higher their status becomes. As a result of it, the ability to connect with others’ point-of-view disappears, including the low-income population they were once ties to.

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